The brasserie is an interesting case, since it should, as the name suggests, be essentially a brewery, and serve dishes compatible with beer. Brasserie Lipp began in this way, brewing beer in the cellar, which explains some of its specialities, eg. choucroute and those expensive canned sardines. When I moved to Paris in 1989, there were many Alsatian restaurants with menus stressing cheese and charcuterie, and featuring beer equally with wine, but today I wouldn't know where to look for raclette or the goblet of blonde that Hemingway used to enjoy with his cervelaz sausage and potato salad.
Bouillons were technically cheap restaurants for the poor, hence the need to line up outside. (We still have one of these just around the corner from rue de l'Odeon.) Most tried to convert to a regular clientele, but the premises are usually too large to be economical. Many subsist on block bookings, and I've used them as such. Upstairs at Bouillon Racine isn't bad for a large literary event but until you've shared it with a hundred Chinese tourists ordering lunch, you don't know what cacophony is.
No, cheap the Balzar is not, least of all for the drinks. And while they do still serve some traditional bistro dishes, the prices are decidedly up-to-date; eg. today's special of calf’s sweetbreads with morel cream sauce and pommes Dauphines at Euros 39.50. i.e. Au$69. On the other hand, where else would you get calf's head with sauce gribiche or authentic andouile sausage, made from minced pig parts, including that indispensible ingredient, the trou de cul or asshole?
Hello John. I love reading your articles. I found this article particularly charming. However, I am curious as to where you would place the French Brasserie in the French dining experience hierarchy, as I have long sought to define them.
My attempt to categorize these establishments led me to conclude that the some(?) Bistrots have morphed into smaller (owner-run?) restaurants with service limited to lunch and dinner. Whereas the French Brasserie is larger and more animated. The Brasserie serves lunch and dinner but also offers a breakfast as well as a limited off-hours menu. I liken a Brasserie to an American Diner (fast service, recognizable decor, inexpensive). But what of the Bouillons? Oh my, I am so confused. This conversation seems better suited over a glass of wine at the Balzar, where I hope to see you some day! Cheers! EB
I have fond memories of Brasserie Balzar. Thank you. I would advise however, unless handing over money in large lumps is your preferred life default, against ordering the Euro 25 Aperol Spritz. Many years ago they used to serve a dish of calves liver with a side of creamy spinach. Seems to have disappeared or maybe it was the season.
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The brasserie is an interesting case, since it should, as the name suggests, be essentially a brewery, and serve dishes compatible with beer. Brasserie Lipp began in this way, brewing beer in the cellar, which explains some of its specialities, eg. choucroute and those expensive canned sardines. When I moved to Paris in 1989, there were many Alsatian restaurants with menus stressing cheese and charcuterie, and featuring beer equally with wine, but today I wouldn't know where to look for raclette or the goblet of blonde that Hemingway used to enjoy with his cervelaz sausage and potato salad.
Bouillons were technically cheap restaurants for the poor, hence the need to line up outside. (We still have one of these just around the corner from rue de l'Odeon.) Most tried to convert to a regular clientele, but the premises are usually too large to be economical. Many subsist on block bookings, and I've used them as such. Upstairs at Bouillon Racine isn't bad for a large literary event but until you've shared it with a hundred Chinese tourists ordering lunch, you don't know what cacophony is.
No, cheap the Balzar is not, least of all for the drinks. And while they do still serve some traditional bistro dishes, the prices are decidedly up-to-date; eg. today's special of calf’s sweetbreads with morel cream sauce and pommes Dauphines at Euros 39.50. i.e. Au$69. On the other hand, where else would you get calf's head with sauce gribiche or authentic andouile sausage, made from minced pig parts, including that indispensible ingredient, the trou de cul or asshole?
Hello John. I love reading your articles. I found this article particularly charming. However, I am curious as to where you would place the French Brasserie in the French dining experience hierarchy, as I have long sought to define them.
My attempt to categorize these establishments led me to conclude that the some(?) Bistrots have morphed into smaller (owner-run?) restaurants with service limited to lunch and dinner. Whereas the French Brasserie is larger and more animated. The Brasserie serves lunch and dinner but also offers a breakfast as well as a limited off-hours menu. I liken a Brasserie to an American Diner (fast service, recognizable decor, inexpensive). But what of the Bouillons? Oh my, I am so confused. This conversation seems better suited over a glass of wine at the Balzar, where I hope to see you some day! Cheers! EB
I have fond memories of Brasserie Balzar. Thank you. I would advise however, unless handing over money in large lumps is your preferred life default, against ordering the Euro 25 Aperol Spritz. Many years ago they used to serve a dish of calves liver with a side of creamy spinach. Seems to have disappeared or maybe it was the season.